Vermeil (pronounced “ver-MAY”) is a jewelry finish in which a thick layer of gold, at least 2.5 microns deep, is bonded to a sterling silver base. Unlike standard gold plating, which can be applied over base metals such as brass or copper, vermeil requires sterling silver as its foundation, and U.S. FTC guidelines mandate the 2.5-micron minimum thickness for a piece to legally carry the vermeil label.
Vermeil jewelry is common in fashion and fine jewelry lines seeking gold's warmth at a lower price point than solid gold. You will find it on rings, necklaces, earrings, and bracelets sold by boutique designers and major retailers alike. Because the base is sterling silver (92.5% pure silver), vermeil pieces carry a “925” hallmark, and the gold layer gives them a color and warmth that can closely mimic 14k or 18k solid gold depending on the karat of gold used for the plating.
Vermeil is more durable than thin gold-plated costume jewelry, but the gold layer does wear through over time, especially on high-contact pieces like rings and bracelets. When that happens, the silver base oxidizes and takes on a darker, tarnished appearance. QJR's jewelers can re-plate vermeil pieces using gold or rhodium to restore their finish, though the process requires care to ensure the plating adheres evenly to the silver substrate. Knowing that a piece is vermeil rather than solid gold before it comes in for service is important, as it affects the choice of plating chemistry and the achievable micron thickness.