Maybe you’ve inherited something from your grandma, or you’ve recently been into thrift shops- you want to know more about your jewelry, and the only thing that you’re sure of is that it’s old.
But where to start? Well, check out our antique jewelry identification guide below.
What is Antique and Vintage Jewelry?
Vintage jewelry is jewelry that is at least 30 years old, while antique jewelry must be older than a century. This means that there are many different types of vintage and antique jewelry based on fashion trends, manufacturing styles, popular materials, and jewelry stamps.
4 Ways of Identification
1. Figure Out the Jewelry Style
One of the most telling ways to identify your jewelry is by its style, which can correspond to a specific time period or area. Here’s a brief breakdown of the most popular jewelry styles by era:
- Georgian (1700-1830): As one of the oldest and still commercially available styles of jewelry, Georgian jewelry is named after the four kings that ruled England during this period. While this style tends to fluctuate due to the lengthy period of time, it is known for its elaborate designs, colorful precious gemstones, and love of yellow gold. Most pieces were part of a set that could include necklaces, bracelets, rings, earrings, brooches, and even crowns. Due to age, many of these pieces are quite expensive.
- Victorian (1830-1900): Named after the reign of Queen Victoria, this style of jewelry was highly personal to the beloved queen, who was a style-setting icon of her time. During the first years of her marriage, a snake ring that was given to her by her husband, Prince Albert, became wildly popular. After his death, the public joined her method of mourning by wearing black jewelry, set with jet, onyx, and other somber gems such as garnets.
Not everything was gloomy, however; Queen Victoria owned a bright and cheerful bracelet with enameled hearts, which inspired jewelers to experiment with enamel in their own creations. Other styles include acrostic jewelry, or jewelry that spelled out messages with the first letter of the types of stones: REGARDS (ruby, emerald, garnet, amethyst, diamond, and sapphire.) Towards the later part of the Victorian era, a fad for archaeology was responsible for the creation of Egyptian and Ancient Greek designs. The rise of the cameo, or a hard material carved into a portrait, is also attributed to the Victorian era.
This cute little snake ring has a pair of ruby eyes and a diamond head. - Edwardian (1900-1910): This style of jewelry refers to the name of King Edward VII, even though it continued for a period of time after his death. It carries over some of the Victorian era’s femininity with lacy and floral designs, but with a more simple touch. White gold and platinum were popular, as well as garland designs that incorporated bows and leaves.
This beautiful filigree bow piece embodies the Edwardian aesthetic. - Art Nouveau: (1890-1910): Overlapping the Victorian and Edwardian styles, Art Nouveau jewelry is a very distinctive style that’s characterized by nature-inspired designs and smooth, sweeping curves. The colors are more muted and natural, including stones such as opal, amber, and moonstone. Beautifully sculpted pieces of ladies with flowing hair commonly appear in this era.
This brass ring shows typical Art Nouveau detailing; note the nude woman and the flowing, organic lines. - Art Deco (1915-1935): If you’ve watched the Great Gatsby movie adaptation, you should have an inkling of what this style looks like! Art Deco pieces were bold and modern, to reflect the growing flapper power of the day. This style combines sharp, geometric shapes with bright gemstones like sapphires, rubies, and emeralds.
This white gold art deco ring is set with diamonds. - Retro (1930-1940): The Retro jewelry style was created during the war, when materials were scarce. As a result, synthetic and inexpensive materials became popular, such as plastic, rhinestones, and glass. This gave birth to costume jewelry, made popular by Elsa Schiaparelli and other high-end designers at the time.
In addition to these historical styles, there are also some regionally-specific types of jewelry:
- Southwestern: Inspired and produced by Native American artisans and silversmiths, these designs are usually made out of sterling silver or leather, with turquoise, coral, mother-of-pearl, and malachite as common materials. Designs include feather motifs, stamped patterns, conchos, and indigenous art.
Two examples of southwestern rings. - Black Hills: Originating from the gold rush in South Dakota, Black Hills gold has a unique look due to its usage of different gold colors, including yellow, pink, and green. Grapevines and grape leaves make the designs distinctive and easily identifiable. In order for an item to be called Black Hills gold, it must be manufactured in South Dakota.
This Black Hills ring shows off the signature multicolored gold look, with grape leaves.
2. Take Note of Manufacturing Methods
While manufacturing methods drastically vary, certain components and details are very telltale when it comes to dating the jewelry. For instance, hand engraving is indicative of a piece dating at least to the 1900s, especially if it is on a signet ring. Incredibly intricate, small, and lacy filigree work, in combination with white gold or platinum, will often point to Edwardian or Art Deco jewelry. Even stones can be affected; machine stone cutting was introduced in the early 1900s, which created the round brilliant cut that is still the most popular diamond cut today. Prior to that, jewelry from previous eras were set with old, hand-cut gems, such as the rose cut for Georgian and Victorian jewelry and the European cut for Edwardian and Art Nouveau jewelry.
Countries have different standards for their metals as well, which will allow you to figure out where your item is from. As an example; the United States does not consider anything less than 10k (41.6%) gold to be considered gold jewelry. In the UK, however, 9k gold is very popular and this is a common indicator that the item was manufactured there.
3. Spot Popular Materials
Aside from gemstones and metals, different materials were introduced to jewelry at certain points in time. A short list of these materials include:
- Bakelite: The first synthetic plastic, bakelite was created in New York in 1907. Aside from its versatility in creating household implements, it was also used in jewelry due to its unique look and variety of colors, including transparency. Nowadays, it has become a popular collector’s item.
- Camphor Glass: A type of glass made from hydrofluoric acid treatment in order to give it a frosted appearance. It first appeared in the late 1800s as a form of mourning jewelry, but eventually became mainstream. Typical pieces from the 1800s to early 1900s are framed with silver or white gold, with delicate filigree work and occasional marcasite or rhinestone accents.
A vintage pendant made from camphor glass. - Paste: An old term for rhinestone, the material used to create paste stones has changed over time from rock crystals to crystal glass and plastic. This range of composition allows for further dating of the item, as earlier, antique jewelry pieces would contain hand-cut pieces of rock crystal paste instead of a more modern alternative such as plastic.
This beautiful pair of earrings was made from two century-old rhinestones. - Foil Opals: A simulated gemstone that was actually a piece of glass over a thin sheet of sparkly metal, in order to mimic the look of a natural opal. These were introduced in the late Victorian era, and are different from other synthetic opals that were made from plastic or sparkly glass. However, the term “foil opal” is now commonly used to refer to all faux opals. These stones are also popularly used in vintage costume jewelry, especially from Mexican manufacturers.
This piece, probably of Mexican origin, has a more contemporary foil opal. - Palladium: Palladium is a shiny silver-white metal that entered jewelry manufacturing during the 1930s, as platinum had been reserved for military use during the war. It is lighter than platinum, but retains its color much better than white gold, which has a tendency to turn yellow with wear. As a result, a piece of jewelry made from palladium will most likely date from the 1930s or later.
4. Look for Jewelry Stamps
Jewelry stamps or hallmarks on the piece often help determine an item’s origins, or even the year it was made. Some manufacturers were in operation up until a specific year, and other manufacturers change their company hallmark over time. Metal stamps, such as 14k, 18k, 925 (for sterling silver), and PLAT or 950 for platinum can also help you identify the material.
Country-specific hallmarks are also great for determining the item’s location of manufacturing. For instance, the United Kingdom has very well-established assay marks, or metal stamps and other symbols that indicate where the item was tested and certified for its metal content. There are four offices in the UK that are allowed to assay jewelry- London, Sheffield, Birmingham, and Edinburgh. Each of these offices have their own corresponding assay stamp (in order): a leopard’s head, a rose, an anchor, and a castle. You’ll find that every country has their own standards for marking items, and their own unique symbols.
Revival Jewelry and Imitations:
Not all vintage or antique-looking jewelry is actually vintage or antique! Be careful of fakes or revival jewelry, which are pieces that emulate older jewelry styles. It can be difficult to tell, but cheaper materials are usually a dead giveaway. Taking it to an appraiser or a jeweler will also allow you to determine if the piece is legitimate or not.
Now you should be set to do some jewelry investigating on your own after reading this antique jewelry identification guide! Comment below if you have a cool piece you’d like to share, or let us know if you’re interested in vintage jewelry repair!
Community Discussion
Questions, experiences, and expert answers from the QJR community.
Any idea
Hi Angel, thanks for commenting! I reached out via email to help you with your ring 🙂
I have a ring with a black sapphire that says Beta 00 on the inside looks like a rosegold please help
The “Beta 00” marking might be a reference to the manufacturer or a collection name, though it’s not a standard jewelry hallmark. If the ring appears to be rose gold, it could be made of rose gold or a similar metal alloy. Without additional markings, it’s hard to provide more specifics. Our appraisal service can help you get the details you’re looking for 😉
I have a ring stamped with HDS 14k. Approx 1.1 tdw. Can anyone advise approx age and value?
The ring stamped “HDS 14k” indicates it’s made of 14 karat gold, containing about 58.3% gold, with a total weight of approximately 1.1 troy ounces (tdw). The age of the ring can vary widely based on its design, but if it has vintage characteristics, it could be several decades old. The value primarily depends on the current gold price, craftsmanship, condition, and market demand; typically, you can estimate its value by calculating the gold content (about 0.642 troy ounces of pure gold) and multiplying it by the current market price of gold. For precise valuation, you may want to have it checked by our jewelry appraisal service! 🙂 https://quickjewelryrepairs.com/repair/jewelry-appraisal/
I’m interested in this ring but wanted to get an opinion before I purchased it. It is advertised as a vintage 925 ring set with natural blue and white diamonds. Stamped 925 with an illegible signature stamp. I can’t figure out what era it may be from based on when diamonds were commonly set in silver. It is stated to have a 22mm face. Any advice or thoughts are appreciated
Hi Edythe! The era and stone origin cannot be established from a 925 stamp or from the fact that diamonds are set in silver. Ask the seller for documentation identifying the stones, treatments, and basis for the vintage date, and consider an independent examination before buying. Our appraisal service is here: https://quickjewelryrepairs.com/repair/jewelry-appraisal/.
I have a ring I found years ago I’d like to understand it’s worth. It looks older by the gold that fastens the ruby colored gemstone in place and the inside band is engraved with “10K 🔼” the triangle appears to be hand engraved and the gemstone is slightly loose within the gold fastening it to the ring and the gold fastening the gemstone is slightly unsymmetrical which makes it appear older.
Hi Michelle! A 10K stamp refers to stated gold purity, not the identity or value of the stone or the age of the ring. A loose stone should be secured before the ring is worn. Please email clear top and side photos to [email protected] so we can assess the setting; valuation requires an examination. You can see the relevant service here: https://quickjewelryrepairs.com/repair/tighten-stones/.
Hi I have a yellow gold necklace with a hallmark that says 14A – anyone know what karat this is? Any information appreciated
Hi Lisa! 14A is not a standard karat-purity mark by itself. It could be a different mark or a worn or misread stamp, so we would not call it 14k gold from that description. Testing can establish the metal content. You can see the relevant service here: https://quickjewelryrepairs.com/repair/metal-testing/.
Hello, can anyone help me appraise this ring?
Hi Vedran, Happy to help! We’ve reached out via email with further details.
I’m looking at a ring with a stamp identical to the one shown. The numbers are 9. .375. .4 and looks like a W. It also looks like a diamond but could be glass..I’m not sure on the stone. It’s labeled as an engagement ring
Hi Megan! 375 denotes a stated gold content of 37.5%, equivalent to 9ct gold. The other marks need a clear close-up to interpret, and none of those stamps tells you whether the stone is diamond or glass. Have the stone examined rather than relying on the setting marks. For a value assessment, our appraisal service is here: https://quickjewelryrepairs.com/repair/jewelry-appraisal/.
I have a beautiful wedding ring set that has what appears to be real diamonds. The engagement ring has a stone of about 3 carrots in the center and six 1 carrot diamonds ( three on each side of the big one. And the wedding band has 8 one carrot diamonds straight across the top of the ring. Both are beautifully matching engraved and both have 925 on the inside of them and have a capital A inside of them. What does the capital A stand for, and do you think they are real diamonds? It looks to be very old by the style.thank you in advance for any reply!
Hi Bob! 925 normally denotes sterling silver, but it does not tell you whether the stones are diamonds. The letter A alone is not enough to identify the maker or age. An in-person examination is needed to verify the stones and assess value. You can review our appraisal service here: https://quickjewelryrepairs.com/repair/jewelry-appraisal/.
Trying to find who made and when it was made. Tested all diamonds they are real. Stamped inside 925 then a star with two letter in star. I think they might be NU? Not for sure
Hi Amber! 925 normally indicates sterling silver, or 92.5% silver. It does not identify the maker, date the ring, or establish whether the stones are diamonds. The star and letters would need a clear photograph and supporting records. For a value assessment, you can find our appraisal service here: https://quickjewelryrepairs.com/repair/jewelry-appraisal/.
I have a ring that just has MAB stamped in it.what does this mean please
Hi Pearl! “MAB” is most likely a maker’s mark rather than a purity stamp. Purity stamps are typically numbers (like 925 for silver, 585 for 14K gold, 750 for 18K). “MAB” could be the initials of the manufacturer or jeweler. If you want to confirm what the metal actually is, we offer metal testing here: https://quickjewelryrepairs.com/repair/metal-testing/
What does “CAC 585” mean on a gold hidden bead? I am particularly interested in the meaning of CAC.
Hi Tonza! “585” is the European hallmark for 14 karat gold (58.5% pure gold) — so you’ve got a solid piece there. “CAC” is most likely a maker’s mark or manufacturer’s hallmark. It’s not a universal standard mark, so it would be specific to the jeweler or company that made it. If you want to dig further into provenance, an antique jewelry specialist or the Jewelers of America directory may help trace the maker.
I have a vintage brooch that I found a marking on. I think it says 3G or maybe 36? I have no idea what that could mean. The brooch is gold, silver and has pearls. I would really appreciate any feedback! 🙂
Hi Danielle! Without seeing it clearly it’s hard to say definitively — “3G” and “36” are very different marks. “36” could be a size or maker’s reference, while “3G” doesn’t correspond to a standard purity stamp. If the brooch is gold and silver with pearls it may be worth a professional look. We offer jewelry appraisals here: https://quickjewelryrepairs.com/repair/jewelry-appraisal/ — or feel free to email a photo to [email protected] and we can give you a better idea.
Hi I have a rose coloured antique watch chain that has a strange hallmark which is like “T☘️H” that’s supposed to be a 4leaf clover in the middle. I want to know if it’s worth anything please
Hi Cara! That’s an interesting hallmark — a cloverleaf or shamrock between letters was used by some British and Irish assay offices and maker’s marks in the 19th and early 20th centuries. “T” and “H” could be maker’s initials. To get a real read on value you’d need a hands-on appraisal from someone who specializes in antique jewelry — we do offer appraisals here: https://quickjewelryrepairs.com/repair/jewelry-appraisal/ — but for a piece like this, an antique specialist or auction house assessment alongside that would give you the full picture.
I have a 14 k gold ring with some kind of jewel iam not sure what it is. If anyone could help me identify this jewel would be great.
Best guess is “sky blue topaz,” although we’d naturally need this in-house to confirm. I’ve followed up via email with next steps to have your jewelry appraised 🙂
I have an old gold ring handed down to me. It is a bright yellow gold with 15OT stamped in a rectangle, meaning 15 carat I presume. The stone in it is a bright pink/red indie a 9 point star shape on a flat round top. Trying to decipher it’s value, origin & era.
We can definitely assist with valuing your piece! I’ve followed up with next steps via email 🙂
Hi this is Todd
Hi Todd, thanks for reading! Let us know if we can assist in valuing a jewelry item for you 🙂
Hello,
I have a watch with a red leather band. It’s marked 14 kt on back of base. It’s says Ms. Little on face of watch. Looks very old but I can’t find anything on it. Can anyone help?
I actually have a collection of old jewelry that I could use help on identifying.
Thanks everyone.
Our watch appraiser can definitely help in certifying the current market value of your piece! I’ve followed up with next steps via email 🙂
I have a ring with 375 and JP02 on the inside what does this mean and worth ?
Hi Ariella, the 375 likely refers to the metal purity – e.g. 37.5% pure, or 9k gold. The JP02 will be specific to the piece’s manufacturer – e.g. maker’s mark, item number, this sort of thing 🙂
How much for this ring?
While we do not purchase jewelry – we don’t have a retail division here at QJR – we can assist in valuing your piece with our gemologist-signed appraisal! I’ve followed up with next steps via email 🙂
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