Maybe you’ve inherited something from your grandma, or you’ve recently been into thrift shops- you want to know more about your jewelry, and the only thing that you’re sure of is that it’s old.
But where to start? Well, check out our antique jewelry identification guide below.
What is Antique and Vintage Jewelry?
Vintage jewelry is jewelry that is at least 30 years old, while antique jewelry must be older than a century. This means that there are many different types of vintage and antique jewelry based on fashion trends, manufacturing styles, popular materials, and jewelry stamps.
4 Ways of Identification
1. Figure Out the Jewelry Style
One of the most telling ways to identify your jewelry is by its style, which can correspond to a specific time period or area. Here’s a brief breakdown of the most popular jewelry styles by era:
- Georgian (1700-1830): As one of the oldest and still commercially available styles of jewelry, Georgian jewelry is named after the four kings that ruled England during this period. While this style tends to fluctuate due to the lengthy period of time, it is known for its elaborate designs, colorful precious gemstones, and love of yellow gold. Most pieces were part of a set that could include necklaces, bracelets, rings, earrings, brooches, and even crowns. Due to age, many of these pieces are quite expensive.
- Victorian (1830-1900): Named after the reign of Queen Victoria, this style of jewelry was highly personal to the beloved queen, who was a style-setting icon of her time. During the first years of her marriage, a snake ring that was given to her by her husband, Prince Albert, became wildly popular. After his death, the public joined her method of mourning by wearing black jewelry, set with jet, onyx, and other somber gems such as garnets.
Not everything was gloomy, however; Queen Victoria owned a bright and cheerful bracelet with enameled hearts, which inspired jewelers to experiment with enamel in their own creations. Other styles include acrostic jewelry, or jewelry that spelled out messages with the first letter of the types of stones: REGARDS (ruby, emerald, garnet, amethyst, diamond, and sapphire.) Towards the later part of the Victorian era, a fad for archaeology was responsible for the creation of Egyptian and Ancient Greek designs. The rise of the cameo, or a hard material carved into a portrait, is also attributed to the Victorian era.
This cute little snake ring has a pair of ruby eyes and a diamond head. - Edwardian (1900-1910): This style of jewelry refers to the name of King Edward VII, even though it continued for a period of time after his death. It carries over some of the Victorian era’s femininity with lacy and floral designs, but with a more simple touch. White gold and platinum were popular, as well as garland designs that incorporated bows and leaves.
This beautiful filigree bow piece embodies the Edwardian aesthetic. - Art Nouveau: (1890-1910): Overlapping the Victorian and Edwardian styles, Art Nouveau jewelry is a very distinctive style that’s characterized by nature-inspired designs and smooth, sweeping curves. The colors are more muted and natural, including stones such as opal, amber, and moonstone. Beautifully sculpted pieces of ladies with flowing hair commonly appear in this era.
This brass ring shows typical Art Nouveau detailing; note the nude woman and the flowing, organic lines. - Art Deco (1915-1935): If you’ve watched the Great Gatsby movie adaptation, you should have an inkling of what this style looks like! Art Deco pieces were bold and modern, to reflect the growing flapper power of the day. This style combines sharp, geometric shapes with bright gemstones like sapphires, rubies, and emeralds.
This white gold art deco ring is set with diamonds. - Retro (1930-1940): The Retro jewelry style was created during the war, when materials were scarce. As a result, synthetic and inexpensive materials became popular, such as plastic, rhinestones, and glass. This gave birth to costume jewelry, made popular by Elsa Schiaparelli and other high-end designers at the time.
In addition to these historical styles, there are also some regionally-specific types of jewelry:
- Southwestern: Inspired and produced by Native American artisans and silversmiths, these designs are usually made out of sterling silver or leather, with turquoise, coral, mother-of-pearl, and malachite as common materials. Designs include feather motifs, stamped patterns, conchos, and indigenous art.
Two examples of southwestern rings. - Black Hills: Originating from the gold rush in South Dakota, Black Hills gold has a unique look due to its usage of different gold colors, including yellow, pink, and green. Grapevines and grape leaves make the designs distinctive and easily identifiable. In order for an item to be called Black Hills gold, it must be manufactured in South Dakota.
This Black Hills ring shows off the signature multicolored gold look, with grape leaves.
2. Take Note of Manufacturing Methods
While manufacturing methods drastically vary, certain components and details are very telltale when it comes to dating the jewelry. For instance, hand engraving is indicative of a piece dating at least to the 1900s, especially if it is on a signet ring. Incredibly intricate, small, and lacy filigree work, in combination with white gold or platinum, will often point to Edwardian or Art Deco jewelry. Even stones can be affected; machine stone cutting was introduced in the early 1900s, which created the round brilliant cut that is still the most popular diamond cut today. Prior to that, jewelry from previous eras were set with old, hand-cut gems, such as the rose cut for Georgian and Victorian jewelry and the European cut for Edwardian and Art Nouveau jewelry.
Countries have different standards for their metals as well, which will allow you to figure out where your item is from. As an example; the United States does not consider anything less than 10k (41.6%) gold to be considered gold jewelry. In the UK, however, 9k gold is very popular and this is a common indicator that the item was manufactured there.
3. Spot Popular Materials
Aside from gemstones and metals, different materials were introduced to jewelry at certain points in time. A short list of these materials include:
- Bakelite: The first synthetic plastic, bakelite was created in New York in 1907. Aside from its versatility in creating household implements, it was also used in jewelry due to its unique look and variety of colors, including transparency. Nowadays, it has become a popular collector’s item.
- Camphor Glass: A type of glass made from hydrofluoric acid treatment in order to give it a frosted appearance. It first appeared in the late 1800s as a form of mourning jewelry, but eventually became mainstream. Typical pieces from the 1800s to early 1900s are framed with silver or white gold, with delicate filigree work and occasional marcasite or rhinestone accents.
A vintage pendant made from camphor glass. - Paste: An old term for rhinestone, the material used to create paste stones has changed over time from rock crystals to crystal glass and plastic. This range of composition allows for further dating of the item, as earlier, antique jewelry pieces would contain hand-cut pieces of rock crystal paste instead of a more modern alternative such as plastic.
This beautiful pair of earrings was made from two century-old rhinestones. - Foil Opals: A simulated gemstone that was actually a piece of glass over a thin sheet of sparkly metal, in order to mimic the look of a natural opal. These were introduced in the late Victorian era, and are different from other synthetic opals that were made from plastic or sparkly glass. However, the term “foil opal” is now commonly used to refer to all faux opals. These stones are also popularly used in vintage costume jewelry, especially from Mexican manufacturers.
This piece, probably of Mexican origin, has a more contemporary foil opal. - Palladium: Palladium is a shiny silver-white metal that entered jewelry manufacturing during the 1930s, as platinum had been reserved for military use during the war. It is lighter than platinum, but retains its color much better than white gold, which has a tendency to turn yellow with wear. As a result, a piece of jewelry made from palladium will most likely date from the 1930s or later.
4. Look for Jewelry Stamps
Jewelry stamps or hallmarks on the piece often help determine an item’s origins, or even the year it was made. Some manufacturers were in operation up until a specific year, and other manufacturers change their company hallmark over time. Metal stamps, such as 14k, 18k, 925 (for sterling silver), and PLAT or 950 for platinum can also help you identify the material.
Country-specific hallmarks are also great for determining the item’s location of manufacturing. For instance, the United Kingdom has very well-established assay marks, or metal stamps and other symbols that indicate where the item was tested and certified for its metal content. There are four offices in the UK that are allowed to assay jewelry- London, Sheffield, Birmingham, and Edinburgh. Each of these offices have their own corresponding assay stamp (in order): a leopard’s head, a rose, an anchor, and a castle. You’ll find that every country has their own standards for marking items, and their own unique symbols.
Revival Jewelry and Imitations:
Not all vintage or antique-looking jewelry is actually vintage or antique! Be careful of fakes or revival jewelry, which are pieces that emulate older jewelry styles. It can be difficult to tell, but cheaper materials are usually a dead giveaway. Taking it to an appraiser or a jeweler will also allow you to determine if the piece is legitimate or not.
Now you should be set to do some jewelry investigating on your own after reading this antique jewelry identification guide! Comment below if you have a cool piece you’d like to share, or let us know if you’re interested in vintage jewelry repair!
Community Discussion
Questions, experiences, and expert answers from the QJR community.
I have markings on my ring that I don’t understand. After 10K is shows LC inside a symbol that looks like the superman shape and a small crown symbol inside a large letter C. What do these symbols mean.
Hi Cathy,
10K is the gold content; your item is 41.6% gold. The other symbols are the designer and manufacturer’s stamps.
My ring has a maple leaf in a square, then 583 , then 3in a triangle.
Hi Suzanne,
The maple leaf and 3 in a triangle are probably the manufacturer/designer’s stamps. The 583 is a metal stamp that may correspond to Soviet-era jewelry.
This info was so helpful to me. I collect antique and vintage jewelry. I have over 2000 pieces and it amazes me at what i have. I have Marion Haskell, Hollycraft, etc. I also have some vintage wrist watches. I really would like to sell alot of it.
Where r u located do u have pics of what u want to sell? I might be interested? U can email me at [email protected]
Just wanted to know more about this broach
I’m interested in the pieces you may want to sell as well. I have a few antique pieces that were left to me from my grandmother(she raised me) right before she passed away, and I absolutely love them! They are my most prized pieces of jewelry and were the beginning of me falling in love with older antique pieces of jewelry. They are so unique and unlike anything I’ve ever seen out there. Please contact me if you have anything you want to part with!
My mothers broche or pin I’ve had a long time. Light sliver or platinum light weight circle with leaves that you can extend out. Clear crystals or glass also in a circle. Beautiful peice. She was from Philidelphua but moved 1941 to St. Lois as a Rosie the Riveter.
Very nice, Lisa! Thank you for sharing.
Whilst digging in the garden I have found a yellow gold ring which only bears the initials WG&S then next to that 18CT&PT. I assume this to be a mix of gold and platinum? There is no other hallmarking or reference to its age…any ideas?
Hi Jen, there are similar rings with the same markings for sale with vintage and antique dealers. They are confirmed to be gold/platinum, and date to around 1920s.
I have a ring that has korea 8 on it i would like to know what kind of ring i have
I can’t give you an evaluation based on those stamps. It doesn’t indicate anything about the metal.
Korea is where it was made and 8 is the size.
I have a beautiful ring that I can’t find any info on online! It only has 2 markings, 925 which means it’s sterling silver then it also has a letter D, capitalized and cursive! It’s got a beautiful amethyst emerald cut diamond! Any info on this? It looks vintage!
Designer or manufacturer stamps.
I recently received a 925 with same capitol cursive D. But three round clear stones, the middle being the largest.
Have u found any recent update as to your original question here?
So how I found this comment is because I also have a sterling silver ring that has a capitalized letter D, in cursive, and 925 stamped inside the ring. I too cannot find any information on the designer in my ring has a diamond shaped blue stone in the center, almost like a cathedral Style ring and very detailed. I still cannot find any info on it, but it is very unique!
great
Hi, I have a ring stamped ” Sterling” on the inside. Can you tell the age by this?
It’s definitely a more vintage stamp, pre-1980s or so.
I have a ring that is stamped with 14Kb and other writing that has been worn off. Looks like it says DIA
Karat stamp and stone stamp
My mom gave me a ring that has a lot of filigree on the metal, 2 round stones (they are not the exact same size, but close) with 4 smaller diamonds each on the top and bottom, and 4 on the sides of different sizes, all of which surround the 2 middle larger diamonds. Is very detailed and dainty. My mom tells me she thinks it’s from early 1900s. There are no markings on the inside, I think they’ve worn off.
I have a white gold filigree bracelet that is at least, by my calculations over 101 years old and has been passed down to a daughter on her sixteenth birthday religiously.I am 83 and it is my duty to give it to the next daughter that comes along, but I have no daughters and only one granddaughter. My problem is that youngsters and young adults today do not want keepsakes from the past and I do not have a close relationship with my one granddaughter—no thank you notes, no reaching out in any way her whole 13 or 14 years, unlike my own many attempts to acknowledge my caring and love for her on a regular basis. The filaghree band with five small amythests, my birthstone, set in small and vinework all around, plus a break in the center to permit opening and closing it is only two or three fifths wide and maybe four fifths wide over the center of the band when closed. Passing it on seems a waste and defies the original reason for continuing the tradition. I have been given contradictory opinions even by jewelers as to the value of the stones.
Hi Linda! What a meaningful heirloom. For a piece with that much family history, a professional appraisal is the right next step — especially if you’ve received conflicting opinions on the stones. We offer jewelry appraisals here: https://quickjewelryrepairs.com/repair/jewelry-appraisal/ — a written appraisal can give you a clearer picture of the bracelet’s value and documentation to pass along with it.
I recently bought an oval brooch with flowers painted the Porcelain … it has the numbers 904, c in a circle and stamp with a upside down U. I searched online via google photo search and found a similar looking one and made out the words 12 KT Gold Filled… there were some letters WINA which was blocked partially. Any idea about the origins of this brooch? Can you roughly date it? Thanks 🙂
Mostly likely a vintage piece, since it has a copyright stamp.
My ring has FI 14k what does that mean
i have a ring that has BL-10k stamped on the inside, does anyone know what that means??
I have a wedding ring set with markings, 14k, D008 and 032. It’s one oval centre diamond shanked by two oval diamonds, mostly white gold but has yellow gold on the settings of the shanked diamonds. It also has design cut outs and very small diamonds around each side of the band and two very small beads/balls. I have no history as I bought it on consignment. Any insight would be wonderful
Any ideas no marks
I have necklaces, bracelets and earrings from my grandmother that look incredible; one drop necklace has only a stamp DAVID and another piece I can make out (I think) MONE with maybe more. These pieces are incredibly made and still look new. How can I come their worth
Hi there, we actually have an appraisal service here at Quick Jewelry Repairs. Here’s a link for that!
Jewelry Appraisal
Let me know if you have any other questions!
I am pretty sure you piece with the MONE is Monet.. The one with David, I am no idea..
How old would an art-deco style ring be with seeds pearls, imperfectly-cut dark red (probably garnet) stones (one of them isn’t a perfect circle but the rest are a little more) and a 925 silver stamp be? It has a hollow front that the stones are set into with little bridging pieces on the sides and has no other markings.
Hi there, not sure. It can be hard to tell with out a makers mark!
i got a 10k opal ring from an antique shop, im haveing trouble figueing out the manufactur after the k theres a T then a triangle
Hi there, I’m not having any luck finding which manufacturer that is but you can definitely try looking it up!
Can anyone help me with these markings on my grandfathers ring that was left to me thanks sure could use the help
Hi there, that means its 10 karat gold and the other stamp is a makers mark!
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